Spring 2010

There were a number of shows I had a lot to say about but I didn't really post about shows the day they went up until like...the last 2 days of Paris. So I hope you have no homework or are really bored at work because this is probz one of the longest posts ever (and once it's over you will feel SO inspired you'll run out of your workplace and do a jig in the street. That's right, a JIG.)

Proenza Schouler
Ok, I use the word "cool" a lot to describe things I just think are fun or funny or rad or whatever..but the other definition of "cool" is, y'know, chill~ and hip~ (is that what kids say these days?) and that I've never really cared to be such. But Jack! Lazaro! BUDDIES..Proenza this season was pretty much the definition of cool and I so want to go there. Built-in sleeves tied around the waist, what were undoubtedly some of the best prints of the season, faded hair dye (so rad, must try?) And I love that this is a collection that is so undeniably Spring/Summer WITHOUT USING MIAMI ca. 1997 PRINTS! Bravo!!
Really Santa Cruz in the 90's (since I totes know what that was like) and summer camp, too, with the bungee cords and backpack buckles on the waist and tye dye (I'm sure they could've made even Teva sandals look cool.)
PS, look farthest on the right in picture #2 will DEFINITELY be in about EVERY editorial EVER for the next half year, just sayin'.

celinephoebe i love you
Take one look in my closet or room (except that would be creepy) and you'll know I'm a maximalist. I love layers and keeping EVERYTHING and wearing too much jewelry.
But God was this collection perfect. Clean cut lines, which I want you to say out loud with emphasis on the c's and t's to get what I mean. The PERFECT shades of nude and brown (and in leather form! gee wiz) and a teal-blue-the color I made today in art class-leather skirt that may find its way into my dreams tonight. I just really can't find anything wrong with any of the looks...so clean and simple and one of those collections that once I remember it during school I can't let it escape my mind and I run home just to look at the pictures (nerd alert.) I shall welcome you back with warm, nude-leather clad arms, Phoebe Philo. Love 4evz.

Christopher Kane
Not many people have been flipping out over Christopher Kane this season but I really do think I like it more than any of his past collections. The inspiration was the film version of Lolita and I am so happy he didn't do any of the Japanese Lolita clothes or any kitschy yellow-and-red-lollipop stuff and instead created a collection that was about the innocencce of youth but was also sort of eerie and disturbing. I like how the fabrics distort the gingham and that the makeup was clean in a very vulnerable way. The colors are also really great and the cuts feel slightly (but perfectly) "off." I haven't been this excited about seeing what a young designer does next in a long time but I am itching for Fall '10 already and declare this the beginning of my Christopher Kane obsession! Meh meh heh meh heh heh.

Hussein Chalayan
I wasn't really feeling the first part of this collection. It felt a bit too.. uh.. "summer! beach!" but my favorite parts were the floppy sunhats with flip-down shades! Now that is pretty awesome. Lady Gaga, you should wear them. Oh wait you already ripped of Chalayan so YOU ARE NOT WORTHY.
Then these navy mermaid sculptural dresses came, then the nun hairnets (the show was in a church) and HANDS! I really love the hands on and in the clothes. I think it's interesting how they seem sort of urgent and creepy and the idea is very much like the motion-stopped-in-time obsession Hussein Chalayan seems to have.

What is happening! Ever since the Ghost World collection Luella has just gotten better and better, then last season was really random and this season is a bit too cohesive and just sort of boring. Cute, whatever..the looks aren't ugly or unnatractive but a heart-cut out at the collarbone and polka dots and bows all in easter egg colors...so kitschy and cutesy and kind of blah. These looks don't represent that very well (these are my favorites, the florals and cotton candy and Luella deVille poof dress) but the rest is kind of disappointing. Major sadface :((((( I have to go cuddle my jacket from SS09 now so I don't feel guilty or lose faith...

Nina Ricci
Wait, lemme get this straight. This company fired Olivier Theyskens, responsible for THIS:
and THESE:
So they could get a more wearable designer, aka THIS:
...Okay. The only part I really liked about the new collection was the styling, and that isn't even the designer's doing. This is definitely more wearable than Olivier's Nina Ricci, but it's wearable you could get at Forever21 for way cheaper and what will look like the same quality (seriously, these materials do not look very nice.) And not "you-could-get-at-Forever21" in a "they will easily knock this off ASAP," but meaning the majority of these designs are things their team could or already have come up with even without any runway pictures to copy off of. You can't justify a hundreds and thousands dollar pricetag with mid-calf leggings and frilly cardigans and some pieces that look like they could have been done by Hannah MacGibbon (if she even made Chloe frilly and girly as we all know it to be and will buy it as.) The shoes are blah (what is so great about a hole in a wedge when most designers were on that incomplete-shoe thing a few seasons ago?) and it's all just so bland. SUCH a bummer. Miss you, Olivier <3 style="font-weight: bold;">
John Galliano
HOLY HELL, GALLIANO. Dior may have been :( but my GOD, you sure know how to give a gal a hernia.
So fun and dramatic and nuts. I want to go here every day and I want the whole collection right now. You need to look at every single detail and look picture from this collection and take it all in..
galliano face love
The makeup! The nutjob headpieces! To do: pin dead flowers and newspaper to my head.
The shoes! Magic. Why have these not been getting much love? They're right up there as my favorite shoes of the season with McQueen and Rodarte.
So DIY and fun, yknow? Tags on your jacket and what looks like saran wrap flowers and the newspaper on your head. I have not one complaint about this collection besides the fact that it is not all sitting in my closet right now. LOVEEEEEE.

miss missoni
90's rave girls with polygamist woman hair and makeup!! I love that this is an extension off of the Fall 09 collection as opposed to something entirely new..I'm not ready to say goodbye to the amazing print mixing and layers quite yet. And the sleeves tied around the waist show up again! Super great.

Balenciaga was very Nicholas Ghesquiere-for-Balenciaga-y since it was so futuristic and geometric and such. But nothing was really mindblowing which makes me sad because since Spring 09 things have gotten less WOW over there. I don't know, not much BAD, just not much GGGGGGREAT. But Tony the Tiger isn't the one buying Balenciaga, so I don't know. A lot of the dresses will look great in editorials, though. Herm..

Nicole Miller
The COOLEST prints. It's like when you have lots of different blues and greens on your paintbrush and you look really closelys at it and can see all the different little swirls. And it's like a whirlpool inside a nebula that's, like, skating on Saturn's rings...so basically I can't talk about this collection without sounding stoned? Yeah k got it, moving right along then...

Peter Pilotto
pilotto pie
Peter Pilotto and Christopher De Vos do the BEST prints. They weren't as great this season as they were last Spring or Fall 09 but I like how the patterns interacted with the shapes of the dresses a bit more (first dress on the left is INSANE) and that the top and skirt on the far right seem to mold into each other.

How was Miu Miu SO good and Prada so..meh? The concept was apparently hallways and corridors but the crustal ponchos and weird peplum and palm tree prints do not translate that at all. I don't know dudes, it was just sort of blah. And I don't know what was with the shoes that Francisco Costa did at Calvin Klein last season only way better or fake toenails.
I loved, however, the prints of people on the beach, just definitely not the prints OF the beach, which looked like they came out of a resort collection. The weird vintage-ish coloring of the people-on-the-beach print is really great, and I LOVE how in white it looks sort of creepy and almost like snow. The other print here is cool too though I can't tell what it is.
But other than these and the sunglasses, the collection did not feel even like Prada and I have lost a great deal of sleep worrying about this. At least Miu Miu was fantastic but..blerg. Herm. Hee. Haw.

cut piece
I love that it's in collaboration with Yoko Ono, that the dresses were inspired by her Cut Piece, that the models cut the dress of the chick holding the scissors above, and I'm SO bummed I was back at home when this show happened in NY. The swirly shapes, ethereal fabrics and black vines twisting around the legs are made of dreams, btdubs.

Viktor & Rolf
viktor rolf uh

"Cutting back...literally!" Oh, ahaha! That's clever!
Viktor, Rolf, I love you guys, and I love your wackiness, and I feel like the biggest Scrooge in the world...and even though I know it's fun and magical it still just feels really tacky. I think the hole in the dress and slit through the blue tulle (sidenote: the blue tulle dress totally has to be photographed against a black wall at some point in its life, SO ORIGINAL I KNOW) are cool but when it comes to the more wearable pieces of the show, viktor rolf
the concept doesn't really translate (besides this one sweater that had holes in it) and it's kind of Hannah MacGibbony (geez I keep picking on her! But seriously..) if she used more color and ruffles. I don't know, I know the first pieces will look great in editorials but otherwise it's just sort of kitschy and gimmicky and blergh.

Vivienne Westwood Red Label
I love the kooky garden party, the shades of pink and nude and gray-ish green, the cane and hat and model on the right in that last picture. The styling is really inspiring too. The article about V.Dubs in the last issue of T was also AMAZING and must be read by everyone ever and the world will become a better place.

Phew! That took forever. More reviews are on my Pop blog, as well. And this should sit here at the top of the page until I have already taken and can stop worrying about the upcoming Constitution test on Friday. Apparently if you fail you get deported and can't get into college and Satan will smite you. Or so I've heard.

i mean you can get this at walgreens right?

Really feelin the makeup at Galliano. There were way too many good things about this show really, definitely must contain hyperventilating thoughts for another post. But anyway, smokey eyed-creepy doll-Kazuo Ohno for Sachiko Kuru-queen of hearts-hooker? That's how I like my women! Because we all know I'm quite the ladies' man:With the obvz gorg Tallulah Harlech and Fabiola Beracasa at the Pop party last month.

Speaking of, I never really wrote about that party. Basically: Daphne Guiness + Olivier Zahm dancing together = MINDBLOWINGLY AMAZING, not knowing you're talking to Cindy Sherman even though every photo she takes is of herself is the definition of stupid (edit: I worded this really weirdly, I LOVE Cindy Sherman, what I meant was that not knowing you're talking to her when all of her pictures are OF her makes you very stupid. Okay neurotic paranoid jew anyway moving on), talking about zombies with Kate of Rodarte in the coat room (which only had about 6 Warhols on its walls, no biggie) was a nice way to relax, I am and always will be an AWFUL dancer but it's slightly more fun when the dancefloor is a glass-covered pool that changes colors, Shala has already beat anyone that planned on wearing Miu Miu Fall 09 at looking as gorgeous as possible in it, and, as you can probably tell by my asshole expression in any pictures from the party, meeting idols is overwhelming.
And that dress made meh feel lak a preenciss.
And so concludes the miraculous saga of how I stunk up Larry Gagosian's house with the smell of locker room-infested deoderant.G'night folks.

photos, style.com, hannah thompson, gif party

well, this isn't very healthy.

This morning my mom tried to wake me up and I think she asked about breakfast or something. And I was like, "MOM, the jacket." And she was confused. And I was all, "MOM, OH MY GOD, the JACKET, DUH." And SOMEHOW she didn't get it and I remember her laughing and saying "You need to get some more sleep."
And then during class today I realized I was talking about this jacket, thought it was in the laundry basket for some reason, and that my mom was asking about it.
At the time, it was the most OBVIOUS answer to my mom's question. About breakfast.Comme des Garcons Fall 09, get in my possession right now or I may grow [more] insane.

oh well i can see why you would want to skip latin. it's only the BUILDING block of our LANGUAGE.

Oheywhaddup guys.
How was your weekend?
A while ago I went thrifting and bought lots of stuff that was either plaid, light pink, or olive green because of Comme des Garcons aw09, which remains one of my favorite collections of all time (OF ALL TIME! Wait no that joke got old like 3 weeks ago.) Today I finally actually wore some of it. Procrastination nation.
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Green doodle coats, brown and green plaids, light pink button downs, the back being different from the sleeves.
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Thrifted shoes and button-down and button-down-pretending-to-be-skirt. Mom's green skirt pinned to back of pink shirt. Don't know why the light is so MEAN because the shirt is actually way more pink, like this:
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Light pink tulle and red side kiss..
One of these days I would really like to have a model to take pictures of as opposed to lugging around a tripod and taking pictures of myself with a self-timer as neighbors and classmates wander past confusedly. Well, the last part is kind of fun, but the main point is that I am so very tired of my face and people are pretty.
All for tonight, folks. Zzzzzzhomeworkzzzzfreaksandgeekszzzz.

thank you.

"It's always a bit discombobulating when people raise their voices in anger because they've gotten wind that designers are making and selling $25,000 dresses. After all, it's not as if the existence of a dress that costs as much as a car negates the availability of cute $25 frocks at Target. And it isn't as though edicts have been issued that all women must now dress like one of the superheroes on Balenciaga's runway.

For personal and sometimes tortured reasons -- I can't have it so no one else can! -- observers declare that they just don't understand the attraction of these strange and expensive clothes. That would be a fair argument if those same complainers lashed out at people who spend thousands of dollars on Redskins season tickets, vintage wines, first-edition books or midlife-crisis cars. But those industries don't stir nearly as much ire from people who are uninterested in them.

Everyone has a passion that is lost on others."

-Robin Givhan, The Washington Post, October 18th. Yes, Thin's In, But Why Is That A Surprise?

meow meow miu laia

I was completely feeling Miu Miu this season. Dudes, you KNOW I want pictures of naked people printed on MY pants!
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The colors were so spot on. Perfect shades of nude and light pink, navy and black and light blue, and red every now and then. And towards the end things got a bit more BLINGy, and some weird crumpled paper bag shoulders were added (all also rad.) There are some shows where I just want to go in and alter everything and jab pins into the models' backs but Miu Miu was so clean cut and perfect.
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And looking at the collection in a less fangirly, "OMG CATS!1" way (I LOVE the cats!), the concept was applied without being too vague (such as, I hate to say it, but Prada's..) or too literal. It was all about youth. And not youth as in Miuccia Prada saying "The Miu Miu girl is young and flirty, confident, loves to party and hang out with her friends, but is also someone you can talk to!" But more...hm..
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It all is very innocent feeling with the humorous prints and colors and braids but there still is a really interesting tension in all of the looks, both individually and next to each other, that isn't necessarily "youthful" but is still very much a part of youth. I think that's what I mean?Untitled 6
Oh, and on a funny note, I honestly thought for a sec that the look third from the left was supposed to be like "YOUTH-not being able to fill a bra." Oops? Seriously though!
Anyway more perfection:Untitled 7
I have to go hound my sisters to see if they have any of these since I didn't get many years of the 90's. Wait, they would've been like, 8. So nevermind. To the thrift store...

PS. Marry me, Miuccia.

sophie loves the mac and cheese dinosaur, which sounds like the name of a garage band aspiring to be like animal collective

Today's outfit was kind of inspired by John Galliano aw09/I just really wanted to wear this skirt my friend Sheba gave me. Sunday we had a number of adventures and went to the fashion archives of the school at the Art Institute and they had every issue of Vogue and Mademoiselle and Bazaar since the 1910's and Comme des Garcons from the 80's and a dress from the first Prada RTW collection and videos of runway shows since the 80's and it was heaven and I felt reborn and like I had to rethink my life and as if everything I've ever seen except the video of the CdG show from the mid-90's was MEANINGLESS.

But that's all for another time. Clearly it has made me a very serious person though:
vintage skirt, boots, necklace, bolero. hairbow from mexican market. headband by jennifer loiselle. olive tights, idk. yokoo belt thing. death stare, bob dylan in this scarring video.

More Baby Lynnie/Queen of Hearts lips! I heard "Lady Gaga" about 5 times today and wanted to throw overly sharp pencils at the comparers. But Elizabeth's Gaga Jackolantern is about the coolest thing I've ever seen (along with the CdG video of course.) I am so excited for Halloween! Whatchewbein? I am going to be a creepy doll with this lipstick and zombie eyes painted and false lashes on my eyelids so I can walk around with my eyes closed and scare moms that dress up as slutty nurses and share Tucker Max jokes with their other mom friends. Then Ella and I are going to watch Beetlejuice and Rosemary's Baby and accompany a really unhealthy amount of candy with more heart attacks and not being able to fall asleep. DON'T BE JEALOUS, IT'S HARD I KNOW.
It was supposed to look like my head sticking out of the leaves but I ended up just looking like a creep that likes to hang out in bushes. Which is fine, but as a proper creep I would like to make it clear that I prefer dungeons to bushes, where you're around, like, nature and stuff.
I just need a couple hours to watch Ghost World and then I'll have cleansed all my bitterness.

Edit: details!
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