August 7, 2010

pro.

When I first watched the Proenza Schouler livestream of their Fall 2010 show I was skyping with Belle, and when the models all came out for the final walk, we both gave a disappointed, "That's it?" in unison.

But in the half a year since, it's become one of my favorites of the season, and I have to wonder if it's the really good ones that you don't get straight away. I loved what Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough did for Spring instantly, and it still tugs at my heartstrings. But Fall didn't have the same pull of neon colors and sequins and feathers that got you straight away. It was all in the details, which didn't translate too well over the show's video. Beaded collars, cropped turtlenecks cleverly layered over netting, sheer thigh highs that just met the hem of a pleated skirt, and a cobalt blue popping up every now and then in the form of a fur cuff or shoe heel all demand more attention than a livestream.


I mean, my God, those shoes. They are so cartoony and wonderful and you can probably keep things like gum and 7" records in the platforms.
I didn't think the dresses at the end quite lived up to the rest of the collection. The idea of concluding by taking the angst somewhere a bit sweeter was nice, but the draping felt off, and not in the way the shoes were so clunky they were awesome. The progression did make me excited for the direction Proenza is going in, though.
Other than that, it was angsty in all the right places (Tiny pockets! Letterman jacket elements! Babydoll-esque cuts!) and perfectly luxurious in others. For some reason, Jack and Lazaro are really, really good at making me wish I was cool. And while I usually fall for the most extreme of styling and presentation, their attention to detail shows the ways in which ready-to-wear can get somewhere extravagant gowns and headpieces can't. Combining subtlety and angst is seriously where I want to be this fall.

85 comments:

PURUSHU said...

lol. so am the first one to comment :P

PURUSHU said...

I've been following your blog for over an year now. As a fashion design student, with hectic schedule and assignments..... it's really difficult to keep myself updated with the latest happenings in industry. Glad am following your blog. keep up your good work :)

Rosé Magritte said...

Very effectual in conveying angst, Jack and Lazaro are. Yet they take the negative connotations that some people relate to angst and make it overwhelmingly beautiful. They make the contradiction coincide.

Every time I look at this collection I feel the need to dishevel my hair and apply on the darkest shade of red on my lips and then rock out to PJ Harvey or Patti Smith as loud as my speakers permit.

Rosé Magritte said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
PURUSHU said...

and.. about the collection, nothing's great except for the draped dress with floral prints (which are kinda good) :)

Annabel said...

okay so this is completely unrelated, but i had a dream lastnight that we went on a camping trip and talked fashion. huh.
and i agree, go proenza!

Emma said...

I have to say that I agree with you about this collection. At first glance, it made me want to cry because it was sad to think that the spring collection was no longer the main focus of Proenza. These two men are really so talented, everyone wants to wear their clothes. People always talk about effortless cool, and how some brands just are so "effortless and cool." Well, if any brand deserves that description, it would be this one. I love energy of the clothes. They don't feel completely estranged from the streets, from what people are really wearing. Rather, they suck up the emotion/pop culture/indie culture/what's new/what's cool and translate that it high-end clothes. The collections are cool because they take inspiration from street cred and the real cool kids. And, yes, it does make you want to be cool. I mean, those graffiti pants? Just so amazing.
Great review, as always. Those shoes are quite amazing, too. Disco hooves.

mila said...

Great review. I LOVE the shoes too!...but I'm also obsessed with Proenza...

Angelica said...

I loved this collection when I first saw it! (but I saw it in photos online so I had more time to really stare at the details) "Combining subtlety and angst" is the perfect way to put it, really. Also the models have absolutely perfect bedhead.

Orphin Lasz said...

Oh, well, those shoes' structures are quite nice to look at, and the textures chosen are certainly interesting!

Also, yeah, I kind of like the dresses but there's something about them I don't quite like - w -

Either way, interesting collection! I like the sort of dark style!

~ Orphin's Domains ~

Vayda said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
Vayda said...

The cobalt blue is just excellent. What an amazing pop of color. TAVI! I think you should post more vlogs..we all love them! Another rap maybe? :)

Sarah Margeurite said...

I really love the curved heels and letterman jackets - I want some! Really great review!

Sincerely, Sarah Margeurite

Evelyn Halim said...

Drop dead gorgeous! Proenza always make my day..

http://stilettonizer.blogspot.com/

Vicky said...

Really love the simplicity of this collecttion. Like you said, it's in the details x

Francesca said...

love the baby doll criss cross dress.

xoxo,
F

lekisskiss.blogspot.com <-- Texas gal bloggin fashion from NYC!

La Petite Anglaise said...

This is one of the most interesting and informative show reviews I have ever read, you are such a fantastic writer. I agree with you that this collection doesn't immediately make you fall head-over-heels in love with it in the way that their spring/summer one did. But after having a good look at each piece I am really, really impressed. Proenza Schouler are fast becoming one of my favourite brands and this collection demonstrates a perfect combination of cool, wearability and high-fashion luxury. I would SO more than happily bankrupt myself to get my hands on those awesome shoes... or one of the funked up babydoll dresses... or to be honest any of it. X

ella-lapetiteanglaise.blogspot.com

HANNAH BARKER said...

yeah i kinda have to agree with u.. when I first saw the show I wasn't exactly thrown out of my chair=p.. its just one of those collections that you need to wait for the detailed photography before u can give the collection a review..

hannahbitsgenius.blogspot.com

MONi said...

I like the dresses with the flowers especially the fist green one but the shoes *ueeergh* sry but they don't say anything they're mutely!

www.weltsart.blogspot.com
come and visit me everyone**

Cara said...

Ah. The shoes are too amazing for their own good.

:: :: said...

too bad they dont have a menswear line. i'd buy something from that

Ryma said...

The Shoes are too amazing :D Much LOVE
Http://justeryma.blogspot.com

JR

WendyB said...

" I have to wonder if it's the really good ones that you don't get straight away." -- I've always believed this about people, books, fashion, etc.

Malicious Mallory said...

I've got to disagree. I really disliked this collection!
I loved the Prefall and the Resort collections - some of my favorites of all time- but I really don't like this one at all. Eh.

HC! said...

i love how you said that this collection made you "wish you were cool". that's exactly how i feel when i see ps's collection. there clothes are so artfully made and always beautiful!
Haute Californian

ólöf said...

nice review:) Live stream obviously didn't do this justice.

I like those shoes..

since on the subject of shoes..have you seen these!:
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs230.snc4/38845_1549807071388_1421452047_1442820_4758227_n.jpg

It's Icelandic design, Kron by KronKron..and I really like it

and here you can se a couple of last two collections..: http://www.kronkron.com/index.php?acao=itemsByBrand&type=&brand=53

anyways..just thought I should mention it haha:)

ólöf said...

I don't have anything to do with KronKron though, just really like their shoes collections..and they are now making tights and stuff as well

Jessica said...

i love those dresses.

Kionon said...

Honestly I wasn't too impressed with this collection either, and for most of it, I'm still not. What I do like is the integrated prep/ivy style pieces. Good examples can be found in the last picture you posted. Pictures 1 and 3 are clearly prep influenced, even though the designers have managed to successfully add an almost goth edge to these classic cuts.

Monika Poppy said...

Yes to the tights no to the buble skirt hemline

xxx

LOVE FROM M POPPY
LIVING IT UP IN LONDON
QUIRKY AS

Putri Fatma said...

cute shoes, I love it
btw, I've already follow ur blog


www.morthcil.blogspot.com

Isabel said...

Feelin' it.

Christina said...

The Proenza girl is so cool. She looks mean.

I was immediately hit by this collection (I didn't watch the livestream, I waited for shots like this to come out, so that probably has something to do with it).

I've been finding pieces at thrift stores, etc. that remind me of this collection (it's not so hard to run in to a knife-pleat skirt). It's definitely my fall inspiration.

FashionCommitted said...

That collection is amazing! I lvoe the shapes and the patterns

Meera said...

Their attention to detail is beautiful. I love the use of fur, and draping.

Beny Ricardo Sadewo said...

Gorgeous, this report so interesting... ^^






Love,
Beny Ricardo Sadewo
http://showoffdotnu.blogspot.com/

Bianca said...

beautiful words tavi.

http://crumpetsandt.blogspot.com

Melissa~ said...

Proenza is one of the labels that excite me the most. I wait for their collection.
I liked this collection, althought in some point, I felt like it was the fall version of the summer collection.
The textures and the details were my favourite. I freaked out with that shoes, they make me wonder "how they create that? what they were thinking" but in a good way, like, how someone can have such an amazing imagination to create that shoes.
As always I liked that with proenza, clothes has this sort of rude and aggresive actitude, not sweet stuff.

eat me said...

Damn, those shoes and skirts are freakin' awesome. Not to mention the thigh highs were the cherry on top of a very tasty sundae.

Hanna Kart said...

all that's pics soooo gergeous :D

Yasemin said...

I actually love a lot of the dresses. The shape is amazing, the length is a bit short, but it works on the models. I especially love the first one, it's got a really interesting structure and prints. And of course the thigh-high tights are to die for.

D.aniiee~ said...

Wow, it´s wonderfull.
xx

Nolita said...

Proenza is always marvelous!

www.nolitavintage.com

marzia ponzi said...

RETRO' YET COOL. PROENZA GIRL IS SO CHIC!!

FOLLOW ME ON:
http://thefashionmum.blogspot.com/

uanset said...

great collection
love the dresses and patterns
the out of bed hair look is super

uanset.blogspot.com

StyleNonsense said...

My Ultimate Show In The History Of Shows Is Alexander Mcqueen SS 10.
StyleNonsense.blogspot.com

Fashion is me said...

Proenza Schouler shoes are always wonderful, unique and unusual. Apparently, the designers have their own vision and do not duplicate anything. Each of their projects, put me under.


Adam,
http:fashionispatrofme.blogspot.com

poppy :) said...

'clunky shoes are awesome so we can do nothing but fall in love with them.' - that would be a cool quote

Adi Sher said...

love the shoes especially the black ones

derek nguyen said...

I felt the same way with some collections. When i first saw them I was like this is not that great. But as I saw some of the collections more and more they grew on me. Like Marc Jacobs fall 2010

Floz said...

Proenza Schouler was a lot more sultry and dark that last season, but it was executed vair well!

isabelle said...

I really find the layering appealing. Love that one shoulder mini over the sleeveless black turtleneck.

pilonstein.blogspot.com/

isabelle said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
Laura. said...

The shoes are the main draw point for me,



http://aforteforfashion.blogspot.com

annelie said...

Love it all!!! Also WANT it all!!

Http://anneliepop.blogg.se

CICIDI said...

not so fond of the collection...your blog and comments are a lot more inspiring... keep up the good work!

http://www.cicidi.com/

Olivia said...

I've been OBSESSED with those curvy heels. <3

firefly said...

I love the way Proenza Schouler does things-neat, detailed, but eclectic. They are never OMG but are usually one of my favorites.

fireflyworks.blogspot.com

Pachi Sánchez said...

Hi Tavi
Proenza is very cool and modern.
I like the use of black.
Congratulations for your video "Chalk" I love it :)

I invite you all to see a history of white witches and Freedom:
http://utopiaisbeating.blogspot.com/

The Mini Satorialist said...

yeah...no... this isn't a very:
"Oh My God look at that! But wait there's more! Wow! I love it!"
type of collection. It's all very detailed like you said but not my cup of tea. The last set of pictures you posted were alright but I think there could of been more fruitiness. You know what I'm saying?

Nicole said...

Hey i live all your posts they are awesome hey by the way my blog is about fashion not school so follow me please!!

MELISSA Z. said...

Love the electric blue details in those accessories! cool!

www.abitoffashion.com

chloeannabelle said...

http://www.chloeannabellesblog.blogspot.com/

Hannah said...

I've only just discovered your incredible blog (very late I know!). You are extremely inspiring so please keep up the good work.

Have a lovely week,
Love Hannah x

MissJuicyxox said...

Lovely blog post, really informative - and intersting ;)
xox

http://www.youtube.com/user/MissJuicyxox

Theonlyfashionprincess said...

like your whole blog! hope you will become a follower of my blog too?
xoxo

http://theonlyfashionprincess.blogspot.com

Theonlyfashionprincess said...

like your whole blog! hope you will become a follower of my blog too?
xoxo

http://theonlyfashionprincess.blogspot.com

LadyNoir said...

Like it!!!

cancercowboy said...

well, i'm not that particularly fond of these shoes. to me they look like something Judge Dredd would wear if he was a crossdresser, no offense, please. some of the dresses look pretty sexy though, but i'm in the mood of seeing them worn by some other people than walking asparaguses right now. sorry again.

Milay said...

Love your blog :)

*Coco said...

red lips.

something between rotkäppchen and schneewittchen.

Briana Le & Merissa Ren said...

totes concurs. i fall a little more in love with the proenza girl everyday. my favorite look was tati cotliar's all black schoolgirl look. definitely how i felt my uniform should have been in high school. especially the perfect conversion of hemline and thigh high.

xxmerissa
merbri.blogspot.com

Tally said...

like the new wicked costumes! i'm certain susan hilferty drew inspiration from this collection.

thwany said...

those shoes are intense

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Engreida said...

Great mix of peek-a-boo, pattern mixing, layering and balloon hems. Very wearable colors and clogs too. :)

http://engreidadesigns.blogspot.com/

lotty said...

Tavi, I love the feather head piece that Monsoon sent you. Alexander James s currently shooting some fashion photography with feathered headpieces and birds.

You should check his work out and behind the scences at the blog:

Stock, Advertising & Fine Art Studio Distil Ennui www.DistilEnnui.com

Canvas prints and stock licensing delivered direct from their stock image library www.AlexanderJamesStockPhotography.com

The studio put all their behind the scenes footage from their productions at http://DistilEnnui.com/blog/

Lotty

sojourned in style said...

love this collection!! its ah-mazing!

WONNNZ FASHION said...

This fall/winter collection is no longer than last spring/summer season (cuz last season was reall great especially black pants with white t-shirt and shades)
but it is like a teen cool kids in the new york street!
those two guys are so talented so i'm expecting to next spring/summer

Jehh said...

I am in so much love with proz. sch. latest collection, I have no idea how to deal without having their pieces. my fave is the third outfit from the right. these hit right spot on for school girl cool. man, I wish my school had private school like uniforms, nay!

xxo
http://fashioncontagious.blogspot.com/

stacey kelly said...

i especially loved the sweaters in this collection. i liked this collection at first but it gets even better when you take a closer look.

xx

youareashootingstar.blogspot.com

Krista said...

I'm not a big fan of the bubble dresses, but the ones that flare out are really quite charming.

boyunSO said...

I LUV the skirt and the color of it. also about the shoes, it is very geomatric. i love something like that.

!!!! the best one is ur blog><!!!!

Is... said...

Olá se me entender;; Posso ser mais um insignificante fã sua (do brasil)
*Se entender* Garota você é demais Amei o seu estilo mas tenho que admitir que eu não tem coragem de sair por aí vestida assim,,
De qualquer forma amei o seu blog..
Obrigado
Sua fã! *-*

Carolina Santos said...

Un Don el que tiene esta niña.