March 17, 2010

Rodarte fall 2010

Rodarte
New York is definitely the most wearable of the four main fashion week cities, and I'm glad Rodarte is there to make things more imaginative. The Mulleavy sisters always bring a sense of fantasy, but it's not a fairytale, and it's never whimsical. It's slightly darker, with a sense of reality - something that is maybe painfully familiar, perhaps in a nostalgic way; a feeling you've grasped before, now translated into clothing. And that's part of the inspiration for this collection: the point between awake and asleep, or reality and make-believe. Sleepwalkers.

It began with a variety of colors and textures and prints, from plaids to florals to knits. There was definitely a dressing-in-the-dark quality, in keeping with the other part of the collection's inspiration: female factory workers in Mexican border towns, whose workday begins at night.
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The fabric combinations also kept with Rodarte's general aesthetic, as did the idea of contrasting elements (this time, colorful/white and awake/asleep.) It was nice to see the print-mixing expand into layering; not just draping, as the girls usually do.
Untitled 1Untitled 2IMG_1281
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The mix of colors disappeared for the last looks, and monochromatic sleepwalkers drifted by. The nostalgic elements of light fabrics, feathers, and pearls went all-white, and I initially felt that this indicated a sort of stripping away of the prints and colors and tracings of daytime so as to make a clean palette for dreams to form. But the fabrics were drifty and the characters vulnerable. The knits and shearling jackets that had previously protected them were gone, and the new dresses resembled nightgowns, underthings visible. Then the blacklight came on, and the heels in the candlewax shoes lit up, and these were no longer sleepy-eyed girls wishing to dream. They were ghosts, drifting along with only white bits of their dresses visible so as to barely haunt us.

rodarte3
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photos by me and style.com. screencaps taken from showstudio.com.

106 comments:

O HAI said...

never thought about ghosts in relation to fashion but since I'm absolutely obsessed with the idea of ghosts, I'm totally game for it.

MADISON thing said...

You are so lucky and fortunate to have attended the show!
I saw this live on SHOWstudio.com.
Lovely Post Tavi.
The collaboration with Rodarte must have been amazing!

You are an inspiration to all Fashion Bloggers.

♥ MADISON thing

www.madisonthing.blogspot.com

Juliette said...

I always love reading your interpretations of designer brands and how you put into words the emotions that the viewer feels.
Well done.

WhereForArtThouRomeo

ANN said...

I LOVE the fabrics and dresses.

maggie-writes said...

I don't love it. It seems cluttered, less focused than their previous collections, and also less beautiful. Maybe the pieces look better in person, but I'm not blown away as I usually am by their stuff. That white dress kind of looks like a curtain (sorry). Those shoes are killer though.

Shelley Noble said...

I love the Tavi take on these shows. You present the show concepts so thoughtfully yet without reading into them more than what is in fact there.

Tavi, you truly are a great fashion writer. For any age person. In any era.

Sam Harvey Handbags said...

Black light puts the creepy and mysterious in old cure videos. this has a party at tommies night club with some guy dressed in black with a glo in the dark orb for a ring smoking cloves. love it darling. thank you for blogging. go get your zzzzzzs now.
http://lara-serbin.blogspot.com/

Mr. Jerry Seguin said...

i think this was hands down my favorite show from NYC F/W 2010. not a day goes by really that i don't think of it. xo js

Ganymede Girl said...

My initial reaction to this collection with not exactly positive but I think that's because the Mulleavy sisters have set the standards so high for themselves and I'm sure it must be hard when people expect you to continually top your previous collection. After looking over it several more times it has really grown on me and though it isn't my favorite Rodarte collection I still think it's incredibly beautiful and the colors and fabrics are amazing.

http://ganymedekids.blogspot.com

Serena said...

I totally heart you and the Rodarte ladies!

Leah G. said...

I can't describe how I long for those shoes... they are what dreams are made of. Well done Mulleavys! The lace is also wonderful, but when are their fabrics not stupendous?

You rule Tavi! Keep those wise insights coming!

samantha said...

mmm, so good. after seeing these pictures a couple weeks ago all i wanted to wear were lace and layers with a dark glimmer in my eye.

ILOVEFASHION said...

I hear alot of ppl talking about this new blog .. http://www.la-nouvellemode.blogspot.com/ | run by some 14 year old guy. I guess Tavi is getting some competition?

Me. said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
Chloe Michele said...

When I first saw this I was so distraught that I didn't have this dress

The feeling still hasn't changed.

THANKS A LOT FOR OPENING OLD WOUNDS.

www.organicfairybread.blogspot.com

Joyce said...

So gorgeous! All the diferent patterned lace.
<3
JL

Alex said...

not at all inspired my Mexican female workers... I live in a border town in Mexico and have NEVER seen them wearing such. if any, some uniform pants and fake ed hardy tees.

The Fashion Seen said...

So eloquent. Well put Tavi.

annamargrete said...

I like Rodarte so musch! That white dress was absolutely beautiful.

diana luna said...

Oh....soo beautiful! I wish i can wear Rodarte for my wedding!

Quirkygirl said...

You are so lucky to attend the rodarte fall show!
their collection was amazing, i want to have everything from that collection! (that is....if i can XD)

fashionismysoulmate.blogspot.com

Diane said...

You're right about NY fw being the most wearable, but Paris is always the most amazing, right?:P

I understand your love for Rodarte, they're collections are always amazing and so original :)

have a fun day!

kiss

LaArmoire said...

love the shoes!!! New York Fashion Week all ways is cool but i like more the Paris one !!!!!

J.W said...

remind me of the orphan.
those blue light.

Jean-Pierre MATTEI whom is just a HUGE FASHION STAR !... {^_^} ... said...

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Beautiful pictures Tavi !
The first One is MMMAAGIICALLL !
Kiss~~~~~~~~
==========================================================

ushi sato said...

I soooo LURV Rodarte's Look now...I LURV the layering and the softiness of the silhouettes....

I LURV you DAHLIN" TAVI...

LurvLats!!!

ushi sato said...

I soooo LURV Rodarte's Look now...I LURV the layering and the softiness of the silhouettes....

I LURV you DAHLIN" TAVI...

LurvLats!!!

ushi sato said...

I soooo LURV Rodarte's Look now...I LURV the layering and the softiness of the silhouettes....

I LURV you DAHLIN" TAVI...

LurvLats!!!

ushi sato said...

I soooo LURV Rodarte's Look now...I LURV the layering and the softiness of the silhouettes....

I LURV you DAHLIN" TAVI...

LurvLats!!!

ushi sato said...

I soooo LURV Rodarte's Look now...I LURV the layering and the softiness of the silhouettes....

I LURV you DAHLIN" TAVI...

LurvLats!!!

ushi sato said...

I soooo LURV Rodarte's Look now...I LURV the layering and the softiness of the silhouettes....

I LURV you DAHLIN" TAVI...

LurvLats!!!

ushi sato said...

I soooo LURV Rodarte's Look now...I LURV the layering and the softiness of the silhouettes....

I LURV you DAHLIN" TAVI...

LurvLats!!!

theclosetmonster said...

the sleepwalking theme is very original in my opinion. though is it was a reall ghost theme the makeup should have been a lot paler than that.
But i did like the dress with the vintage pearls and lace. It reminded me of a 1800s victorian ghost in a tattered nightgown

Elodie said...

Dear Tavi,
when are you going to reveal you and Michelle Williams are relatives?
You look like a perfect young version of that great actress.

Emily said...

Great review. The collection was absolutely gorgeous. The Mulleavys always pull inspiration from the most unexpected, most beautiful of places!

xx

Nokta said...

The history of fashion
mirc

Carlos said...

Lovely interpretation of the show!

Carlos said...

Lovely interpretation of the show!

Marlon said...

I think there is something about Virgin Suicides in the white dresses?

http://the-lonesome-boy.blogspot.com/2010/03/virgin-suicides.html

Kate said...

I wish I were there! You described it so well it sounds like it was a really neat experience in person. Is there a video/could you direct me to it?
Thanks!

Erin said...

I really love all the textures and lace used in this collection. It's very feminine and beautiful.

-Erin
Style-Savvy.blogspot.com

U-NI-TY said...

Nice pictures!

Tavi said...

Alex-It wasn't inspired by what they *wear*, but the *idea* of their going out in the middle of the night.

Kate-SHOWstudio.com

Elodie-Haha thank you! I wish..

Diane & LaArmoire-Yeah Paris is definitely my favorite.

Sammi said...

Yes, this was a lovely collection. I love Rodarte, but I'm sticking with their Target line for now. It's just a tad more affordable.

Lesley said...

It's hypocritical for Rodarte to take inspiration from Mexican maquiladora workers - the shifts that they work (not to mention the conditions people work in) are not inspirational and put women in vulnerable and unsafe situations. Rodarte is contributing to this with their Target line, which is made in similar (probably worse) conditions in other countries.

Ann. said...

Lovely collection, spectacular

Emma said...

This collection was by far the best in NY, right up there with Marc Jacobs. I saw the show on show studio and it was wonderful. Just the music and lights and everything. The clothes seemed to take a different turn from the darker aesthetic at Rodarte. Yet, the meaning was just as dark if not darker. Like you said, it was real. It not only related to a fantasy or an animal (CA condors of last collection), it related to the real dangers and struggles of women in these border towns. I really loved the steel flower hair pieces with the bullet holes, a great way to add more to the whole look. Amazing collection, softer than they have done before.
As always, great to hear your thouhgts and great pictures. I can only imagine what you felt like when those wonderful looks drifted past you.
-Emma

FASHION SNAG said...

I love Rodarte.

www.FashionSnag.com

ólöf said...

I really like this collections, the layering, the ghost and sleep-feeling and the shoes..oh the shoes..

I really like this collection..really really like it..hmm:)

anne said...

I find it amazing how perfectly you can describe a runway show without being all 'yeah i wanted that one and the first dress was so cute and the third one was really hot with the layers and all'. :)

Rule of Fashion said...

i love the fabrics,

checkout my shoppingblog

Sandra said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
Sandra said...

Actually, I must disagree with your first statement. Perhaps it is the age difference (I'm 33) but Paris is the most wearable in my opinion, specifically because of Celine and Louis Vuitton, summed up beautifully here: http://thesartorialist.blogspot.com/2010/03/blog-post.html

M.L.C. said...

Gosh, this is soooo amazing, I love the night part with the blacklights which make it all ghost like. well done tavi, greets from belgium, hell yeah you're famous everywere... x

http://www.parlesyeuxdemerveilles.blogspot.com/

Giovanna ♥ said...

I adore Rodarte's textiles!
xo
Giovanna
www.bohomarket.blogspot.com

Dominika said...

wow, this is such an amazing collection! i'm truly in love with it!
<3

Lady Danger said...

fantastic show. the rodarte girls really did spice up new york fashion week, and i love the doll/ghost motif, it's kinda voodoo in a way. eerie and ethereal.

fondly,
lady danger for IMPROPER OPERA

http://www.improperopera.com/

angsthase said...

I have never really loved Rodarte, but this collection might have swung me. I have always wanted to like them, but have never found their clothes to be interesting or even nice, but this seems to be more of an aesthetic that I like. Plus, those shoes are beautiful! Also, it slightly reminds me of the workers with leprosy in the Studio Ghibli film Princess Mononoke.

Kamilla said...

absolutely amazing! white ghosty dresses <3

Emilie ! said...

God, tavi... I still can't get over it, I've been reading your blog for just over a year, and so much has happened, now I'm seeing you mentioned in elle and vogue, etc, etc. AH, sorry for that mental freakout, just totally can't believe it! Keep blogging like you do, you completely deserve where you've got to!

http://fromahappieangle.blogspot.com/

Misery said...

I must say that I wasn't this much impressed by this collection. I didn't like the way the layers were put onto each other - somehow the outcome was a bit sloppy. I don't know, maybe I'm into more 'organized' looks? And Nicholas Kirkwood shoes were, in my opinion, fail - because of that wax-like thingy on the heel. If it wasn't for this, they'd be great :)

But I DO agree about New York. It's definitely most wearable. AND, even though I'm not the biggest fan of Rodarte's latest works, I just LOVED the way you wrote about it. I probably mentioned it before, but I wish I had such narrative skills when I was your age :)

Jenny Peyton said...

Hey Tavi,
love your blog, we don't hear as much about the latest fashion over here in australia so your bridging the gap! I hope you realise how accomplished you are for 13. When I was 13 I was interested in reading and getting the latest toys. Took me a while to care about what I was wearing. Thanx for putting in the effort!
xxJenny

octoberose said...

Your writing about this collection was quite poetic, which lent itself to creating the mood of the show for those of us not lucky enough to see it in person. Well done.

Abbey and Chloe said...

Very well put. Hope you had a great time. Kate and Laura are amazing!

isabelle said...

passed on a blog award to you






drinkteabecontent.blogspot.com

mila said...

LOVE!!! :D

Stern said...

Hi!

Sorry for my English, :).
I'm your follower since few months ago and really I love how you express and you describe fashion collections.

I love this.

Lilcocoloco said...

Love the 'glow-in-the-dark' effect!! Brilliant!!

firefly said...

Very cool collection!

Emily said...

I just realized that you changed your URL! very unexpected. moving on to a new chapter in your life? haha

xx

Claudia D said...

i mentioned you on my blog:
http://www.beetle-bug.blogspot.com/

Sarah Margeurite said...

I am absolutely loving the colours and the sort of dream-like quality here.

Sincerely,
Sarah from The Etiquette Cult

Ellie said...

People have been saying there is some rivalry between her and the 14 year old guy that runs http://www.la-nouvellemode.blogspot.com/ << Runway fashion blog. I am not sure if its true or not...

Caddy said...

When I think of those white dresses I think of weddings and ball and debuts. They look so delicate and beautiful too.

Izzen said...

I love the ethereal nature of these pieces. Conjures images of beautiful spectres.

http://izzenxoxo.blogspot.com/

Hugo Hase said...

The knitwear is great - as always with Rodarte! And the shoes look amazing - the heels matching the candle decoration on the runway - nice!

Elyse said...

Your description of this show was fantastic. I agree with every bit of it.
Absolutely love Rodarte.
www.notimeforexistence.blogspot.com

Masha said...

wow! so beautiful! all this colors at the top and after all these light white fabrics. and I think that it is really your style. and rodarte is definitely one of my favorite brand!

www.leblogdemasha.blogspot.com

www.leblogdemasha.blogspot.com

goldminetrashvintage said...

I've never seen a Rodarte I disliked.

s. said...

great writing, Tavi. perceptive, eloquent, and concise. your sensitivity to fashion is refreshing. "dress-in-the-dark," I especially loved that. really sharp insights.

meggasus said...

I absolutely love these white lace, wrap dresses! They are so sweet yet they also have a creepy zombie undertone. Very different and very cool!

Tavi- This is my first time visting your blog...I'm very impressed! Keep up the good work. you know your stuff!

KatieeMaq said...

Not my blog but I think Tavi and whoever runs this one, http://la-nouvellemode.blogspot.com/ , are the best teen fashion bloggers on the internet.

Tia Varrasse said...

This is random, but have you watched Boys Before Flowers? It's a Korean drama and one of my favorite shows. I think that you'd love it. It's twenty five episodes long. Here's the link for all the episodes with English subtitles:

http://www.mysoju.com/boys-before-flowers/

Gira said...

i did a post on the collection, its so beautiful.. amazing! layering and texture at its best! are you going to be receiving items from the collection?? if so can't wait to see how you style them!

laura_t11 said...

you write so beautifully!

it's really nice to see lovely decriptions to accompany lovely clothes.
i love that long white dress with the drapings and pearls....reminds me of the white queen in tim burtons alice in wonderland, there were some beautiful costumes in that movie.
keep up the good work you're an inspiration!
Laura xo

http://thelusciousmix.blogspot.com/

rachel said...

I love how you perceive fashion, and your review ended up really inspiring me :) As well as the Mulleavy sisters of course!

Down Bedding said...

Not sure I could pull much of this off, but fun to look at :)

Prince Alban said...

It's amazing I love It !

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La Feem said...

Great insight and writing, kudos.

Liana said...

Absolutely incredible show and collection! What I would have given to have seen it in person!

Your descriptions made me drift off into a virtual wonderland/never-never-land of silk lace and chiffon.

Ahh.....who wants to ever come back down off those clouds? Peter, I don't want to go back to dull DC reality! boo!!!

Miss Jeanett said...

Beautiful collection!!

/Jeanett
http://jeanettd.blogspot.com

my_wishes_x said...

I LOVE LOVE LOVE this!
The fabrics, the layering, the colours, everything just works so perfectly.

acline said...

I really love the ethereal, slightly inuit-inspired vibe of the collection!

Michael said...

HELLA POLITICALLY INCORRECT

Barron said...

My fav Rodarte collection by so far! The Rodarte girls really expand the viewpoint of fashion, which is all to often narrow. It is as if the fashion gods speak through them! Rodarte is turning fashion into a language! check out more at my abfab blog- barronb.blogspot.com

Jennythenipper said...

"It's hypocritical for Rodarte to take inspiration from Mexican maquiladora workers - the shifts that they work (not to mention the conditions people work in) are not inspirational and put women in vulnerable and unsafe situations. Rodarte is contributing to this with their Target line, which is made in similar (probably worse) conditions in other countries. "

I think that's the whole point of why they are bringing it up. I think they are literally haunted by the idea of it. Is it expoitative? Probably, yes, but it's interesting and shocking and that makes it fashion. The most amazing thing to me is that none of the Muleavy Sister's clothes are as shocking as their own anti-fashion appearances. They look like modern day Bronte Sisters. They are in a world of their own. They create art. They talk about the slavery of the Maquiladora in the same way that the Bronte sisters sometimes used slavery as a metaphor in their writing, even though they technically benefited from it. You can be opposed to something and and ensnared in it at the same time.

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