October 4, 2009

issey miyake

For some designers this season, playing it safe and retail-friendly meant going back to what people know and like them for, while for others, this meant straying away from such, probably because their label's aesthetic is intimidating to try and apply every season. This season, the Issey Miyake collection by Dai Fujiwara was inspired by traditional clothing from all over the world. There wasn't much concept other than that, which is strange, considering the label's and Miyake's own history. Perhaps Fujiwara is of the playing-it-safe group that is intimidated by the label's aesthetic, and doesn't want to touch what it is mostly known for: philosophical ways of exploring clothing. Bummer. The thing is, most people that want to buy Issey Miyake want to buy pieces that are very distinctly Issey Miyake, and not what you can find done by other designers. If I look at this collection long and hard enough I can probably come up with something real deep about it, but it is, for the most part, just great to look at, with interesting -- but surely not thought-provoking -- inspiration. It was a bit like the Olympics, bringing together all different corners of the world and traditions, which I do think is a nice idea. I want to like the collection a lot, because it's very pleasing to the eye, and I am in love with the styling. And if I imagine that it is another label whose aesthetic is based on just the visual aspect of design, I do like it a lot, as the kind of collection I write about in a hyper voice while overusing the word "awesome." But looking at the slideshow pictures from the show, something did feel off. I think that when it came to drawing inspiration, Fujiwara made the mistake of looking further to other roots, and not deeper into his label's own. And that, I think, is what felt so off.
miyake1miyake3miyake2
On an unrelated note, I predict this will make magazines talk about "Tribal!" prints even MORE and some editorial will use one of these webby knit things with the giant pink mesh poncho at Y-3 and/or bodysuits from Mark Fast.

56 comments:

Soren Lorensen said...

good insight

bravo for honesty

KD said...

Well said! I really liked the legs but I didn't actually like many of the non-legwear individual pieces.

xAZD said...

Great posts recently about the spring collections-- and yes the styling of this show was great, with the shoes and tights and all.

please check out our blog!
xx,
www.xAZDdesign.com

50two said...

well i liked it. even if it wasnt so greatly spectacularly awesomecakeomgwtfblagblargblargblargvomittt!

Razzi said...

I love the tights/leggings in the last few pics but I agree, the collection as a whole doesn't mesh that well.

http://www.littlerazzi.blogspot.com

Jay said...

loved your run down Tavi..
you always do a good job on the chopping block.. And its so true about the season and how the economy is defining a collection..

http://ForYourSATISFASHION.com

Pearl Westwood said...

Oh yep it will definately get 'tribal'!
It really is a bit of a random collection, and really, really looks a bit Matthew Williamson with the prints and dip-dye. Not one of my favourites, but there are elements that I do really like.
Pearl

kyambrae said...

ha. your post was very honest. besides, lying only makes a situation worse. bravo!

Ross said...

I totally agree. the collection is pretty, its beuatiful really, but it just doesnt have that...thing. the thing that makes it super. great post

Emilie said...

Obviously agree about the collection's aesthetic appeal. The combination of colorful prints is fun to look at. Admittedly, I hadn't heard of this line until about three minutes ago when I finished reading your post but I think your take was an interesting one (even though, since I don't know anything about the label, I don't have much of an opinion to offer).

In response to the shoe topic, perhaps I shouldn't have used 'sick' it's a bit strong, but I liked their simplicity, I agree that it would have been distracting had they been any more elaborate.


Emilie

Lizz said...

i agree i agree, that stuff is kind of, i don't know, "fun"
but not wonderful, in any way.

VICTORIA said...

hi, I saw in (korean magazine) voge any way i think you like this blog http://blog.naver.com/jjun8204 and this is not mine!!

MAISON CHAPLIN said...

Hi, Viktor & Rolf didn't play any safe and they did one of the best collections presented at Paris Fashion Week.. ;)

Maison Chaplin @ Paris Fashion Week - http://MaisonChaplin.blogspot.com

Ashley said...

You write amazingly well. You get your perceptions across so clearly and your review is so spot-on.

http://fashionroadkill-halifax.blogspot.com

Vanessa said...

Love all your show recaps. The third look you posted is pretty cool.

Jess. said...

Oh my, I definitely see pages splashed with Tribal themes in the coming months. Wonderful critique, dear. Very true!

Jess.

firstordergoods said...

Tavi - What about Christopher Kane? Both his London and Versus collections were stunning. Gorillas aside, he's certainly worth a mention.

Visual Culture said...

the real artist is only a vehicle..simple but great .i like seledin shoes
see yaa
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pdamqqd2YZE&feature=related

helenlouise said...

You write so well.

Daud Gultom said...

I personally love the recent collection fro Issey Miyake but I agree with you, there's an off-side of this collection, the root of Fujiwara himself that is.
Yet, I love the tribal thingy that is currently goin around from Rodarte to Dries Van Noten. Mr. Dries uses batik for couple of his garments and I'm so proud of being an Indonesian (since Batik is from Indonesia). anyways, please do me a kind favor by writing a review about DriesVanNoten S/S '10 will you? Thanks

-Daud

PS: how could you write so well? you are truly a wunderkind.

Daud Gultom said...

oh and I forgot one thing, you are definitely the next Sarah Mower and Isabella Blow. enough said.

lucky style NYC said...

i need some of the fruity loops that you're eating, and I hate to be a party poop, but when i see the work that goes into a great collection like that and then read stuff like this, however well intentioned, something in me screams out like the unborn baby sharks that are eaten by their already hatched siblings.

read on here and get yer tissues ready for the excitements or tears

:http://modelsoffdutygolucky.blogspot.com/2009/10/daily-does-of-critique-from-round-webz.html

troisieme said...

Hi! I know your famous blog.. Congrats! Very cool outfits!
If you want, check out our t-shirts collection on:
http://troisieme-moda.blogspot.com/
Let us know what do you think about!
Thank you

Chloë said...

Well written, and well said!

Lucky Sharm said...

Quel candor! Your writing and insight is often better than half the magazine editors out there. Very enjoyable to read.

BTW, you are in this week's issue of french Grazia! Felicitations ma cherie!

MIA said...

Hey, my name is Mia and I'm from Portugal.

I couldn't believe when I read an article in a journal about your sucess(congratulations). Immediately I went to the computer to see your blog. uau(wow), fantastic, your texts, critical are great and your style is really unique and original!

I'm just one year older than you and I want follow fashion design, I also have a blog, but not(obviously) so fantastic as yours.


continues! do not let anyone get you down!


(sorry for my english, it's awful...)

Brendiva said...

I liked the black and white outfit. Leggings rock! LOL

http://www.brendiva-brendiva.blogspot.com/

FND said...

Dries Van Noten + Gaultier meets Ms Universe Traditional Costume Section. I think its kinda cute, with some winning pieces. True, this may not be Pleats Please, but the daring print mixing is a win.

Evie Stewart said...

You're a fashion prodigy savant goddess with the best fashion blog ever.
It's a worship situation!

solomon said...

I think that you have a great sense of style and you have a passion that you are following to all ends. Its good to see someone young going for passion.

is there more to life than just materialism though? young and mind right, try to reach higher levels of consciousness. explore a scape far beyond those of the surface level. make an impact and not just visually, but mentally. Use such passion to expose the wrongs and focus your mind to make them right.

misplaced passion?

our youth are consumed by distractions that sets on a course for numbness to the reality of the situation. do not become numb, absorb the passion but do not become the passion.

snoblak said...

hmm...hence why i am only loving ONE ensemble in this entire collection. slightly derailed from what i expected from Issey. But then again if this is their idea of bringing in someone who can ...play it safe??

solomon said...

also, this was not meant to be negative in any way, shape of form. I know that you probably think about such things, just wanted to people to know that you do.

CHICMUSE said...

LOVE IT. GORGEOUS COLLECTION.







XX
CHICMUSE

Maddie said...

why are you so cool?
ha, im 13 too, but i live in london.

Becca Jane said...

I'm agreeing with you on this, but I will admit I do love those printed tights.

SAUVAGE said...

Fabulous review. I love love the second to last dress.. I am strangely compelled to see it worn with lichtenberg's hair shoes.

Angeles Almuna Design said...

WOW! You write so well...
I wanted to write like you, wonderful girl! You have a fashion sense that is unique, I love your blog! :)

Tavi said...

lucky style nyc-"get yer tissues ready..." That was supposed to upset me? It's your opinion, so while I disagree, and fail to understand the triumph with which you presented the link, I can't partake in the argument because it is really just about personal opinion.

solomon-Of course there is more to life than materialism, but with the exception of Clothing With a Cause, I don't write about it here for multiple reasons. For one, I'm 13, and most people don't want to be told how to live or what their morals should be by someone so young, understandably so. This is a fashion blog, so I write about fashion. This doesn't mean I don't have other interests, or don't care about other things. I don't think my passion is misplaced-of course I have vices, but I don't think fashion is one of them, and I'm unashamed of my love for it. Fashion is not simply materialism, and I'm sorry you fail to see that. But thanks for the life advice?

And that's the last I'll say on both of the issues presented by the two commentators above. Happy Monday..

D. Winfield Norman said...

Kind-of reminds me of Peter Jensen when Greenland got angry at him.
I've never been fond of just derivative 'traditional clothing' images. Has to be some substance attached to it in the fashion world.

filth on second st said...

tavi, I love you. this post just completely reassures it.

crickets said...

Wonderful reviews. I have to say that I almost completely agree with all that you had to say, jeez what a conformist.

Wonderful work though Tavi, can't wait to see the next review.

Luke Laurie Hannah
http://therevoltishere.blogspot.com/

melbournegirl said...

love.

[ StrawberiiStarz ] said...

Solomon - Fashion is another type of artwork. The body is the canvas and the fabric is the medium. :3

Now I understand some people worship fashion as an idol, which isn't healthy... but Tavi is merely blogging about one of the many passions I'm sure she has. :] She has much to say and it's interesting to most of us who also share this interest.

zoomslow said...

i agree that there isn't a lot of philosophical work going on here, but the 2nd row, 2nd from left outfit is very pretty :-)

Alison said...

I love the tights especially those rose/salmon to white ones. My legs would never do them justice but I can dream!

shihiayah said...

Perhaps there is a greater message in borrowing from traditional cultures than you propose in your post. I think it is possible that Fujiwara is making a very pertinent statement; in the midst of this global economic crisis (the first crisis of globalization), he chooses to look backwards towards indigenous communities--which are largely considered to have much more sustainable lifestyles than those associated with modern industrial nations--and incorporate those images, those aesthetics, into this high-fashion modern art form. That's a choice that, I think, few designers would make, and is notable in that respect.

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